Prague for Tourists vs. Prague for Locals: Navigating Two Realities
Two sides of Prague: Petřín Tower and new apartment blocks
Prague of tourists and Prague of locals feel like two different realities struggling to coexist. As an independent tour guide, I must admit that the city’s historic façades conceal a great deal of drama—an ongoing struggle to balance visitors’ expectations with locals’ frustration over rising prices and a shrinking housing supply.
First Visitors
I have met many Westerners who shared their memories of their first trip behind the freshly fallen Iron Curtain to the “virgin” lands of the post-Communist Czech Republic. They excitedly recounted half-empty shops, a lack of English speakers, and locals’ genuine interest in visitors. Many had never met Americans or Brits before and were eager to learn about the out-of-reach world of Coca-Cola, rock ’n’ roll, and heavy-duty consumerism. Now, 20–30 years later, these second-time visitors confess that Prague has changed a lot: billboards, McDonald’s, and Starbucks have made it more Western—and they miss its original charm. Ironic, isn’t it?
A typical city center store
Prague’s New Party Scene
In 2010s, Prague suddenly found itself as Europe’s new party capital. Techno clubs sprouted all over the city, attracting hip youth from around the globe to dance beneath the former Stalin monument, now graced with the Metrnome. In a way, Prague followed a trajectory similar to Berlin’s, without leaning so deeply into club culture. Cheap beer certainly helped! Affordable alcohol was a huge draw for youngsters, along with lenient drug laws. Decriminalization made acquiring substances easier, despite their illegal status in the Czech Republic. No one in those clubs would have known, though, with thick clouds of marijuana smoke or partygoers huddled over tables with zip-lock bags. The shops selling “pot plant” products only fueled the myth.
Two sides of Prague: Communist apartment blocks and Havel’s Market
The Tourist Boom and Its Allure
In recent years, Prague has suffered from its own success. Still synonymous with bucket-list European destinations, despite rising prices, the city now hosts nearly 8 million tourists annually. Catering to everyone—from budget travelers to luxury seekers—has proven exhausting. City officials recently announced plans to rebrand Prague as a more luxurious destination. Budget travelers will still have a chance to visit, but accommodation prices can’t compare to seven or eight years ago; €100 per night is now the average rate at many hotels.
Dining is another area where locals have felt priced out by tourists, with the majority of centrally located restaurants increasing their prices (now a meal in a mid-range restaurant costs about 250 CZK, which is 100 CZK more expensive than five years ago). Additionally, the quality of service in well-known restaurants loved by both tourists and locals has declined, so neither of these groups is happy with what they pay quite a lot of money for. When we were shooting a video about Prague Cheap Eats, we struggled to compile a list of affordable places with tasty food.
Two sides of Prague: St. Vitus Cathedral and communist apartment blocks
City Center—Locals Are Long Gone
Many complain that Prague’s city center has become too touristy, blaming the growing number of short-term rentals without realizing that locals were priced out of Old Town long ago. As soon as the Communists left government, international companies transformed historic palaces and quaint houses into offices and hotels, leaving native Praguers no chance to remain. To be fair, some locals who inherited central properties were happy to sell them—the full-blown interior reconstructions were simply too costly. I don’t understand the tearful whining about a “tourist desert” — that is how some locals have labeled the historical neighborhoods in the Prague 1 area. If anything, the late-1990s government should have foreseen this, but was too excited about new business opportunities. The short-term rental crisis was the last nail in the coffin.
Modřany, Prague
Impacts on Local Life
For many Praguers—students, families, and the creative community—life beyond the tourist hubs feels squeezed. Rents in central districts have soared, pushing everyday shops and cafés out in favor of upscale boutiques and short-term rentals. We have met people who revealed that ten years ago, they could afford to live in Žižkov and Vinohrady, two of the most desirable neighborhoods. Barely anymore! Many were forced to swap their fancy three-meter-high-ceiling flats for Communist-style apartment blocks. Now locals only go to the center for shopping or culture; living there has become a privilege not everyone can afford. And what about those who already live on the periphery? They say that even the suburbs are too expensive now! Where will these people go?
Two Prague realities: Old Town vs. outsirts
Two Cities, Two Experiences
As a result, Prague’s locals are totally detached from tourists. They have very few opportunities to mingle, which leaves locals upset that their history was “outsourced” to foreigners, and leaves tourists hungry for authentic experiences and interactions. As a guide, I have been asked “Where can I hang out with locals?” hundreds of times, but I am always careful with that answer. After all, I’m not certain locals want to hang out with tourists. Probably not: every time a local favorite café is mentioned in a travel guide or a viral TikTok, crowds of visitors descend, and the locals are bummed out. Therefore, I often feel like a guard protecting the thin border between Prague for tourists and Prague for natives.
Two Prague realities: Historic vs. new
The Clash of Priorities
Prague’s authorities also regularly find themselves in hot water. On one hand, they want to make tourism as profitable as possible; on the other, they must protect Prague’s heritage and charm. The Airbnb debacle was a true test. For a long time, Airbnb was tolerated as a sustainable travel alternative. But now, most short-term rentals are owned not by locals seeking extra income, but by large companies and developers who buy entire houses for rentals. Locals have protested through multiple political and social campaigns, pointing out that short-term rentals are poorly regulated and threaten native inhabitants. As a result, the new eTurista system may be implemented to limit landlords and companies.
Living in the Prague subburbs
My Perspective as a Guide and Resident
Balancing Prague's dual identities is the heart of my work. Sometimes I have to think twice before recommending something: will it be alright, or will the tourists I sent there be the last straw for the regular customers? One time, I had made friends with a couple on my tour and brought them to my favorite café, hidden in the courtyard of the Old Town Hall. As we sipped our cappuccinos, I caught multiple side-eyes from the Czechs who sat nearby because they heard us speaking English. I don't feel too bad about it now, as that particular café has since been mentioned in multiple guidebooks, but I have become cautious of the divide between what can and cannot be recommended to tourists. We cannot change global trends, but we can try to influence decisions and warn tourists away from bad experiences.
Author: Valeriia Zahradnikova, a Prague guide certified by the Prague City Tourism agency. Valeriia and Vaclav have worked in tourism for over 8 years and have guided thousands of Prague visitors.
Disclaimer: This article reflects the personal opinions of the author and is not intended to discourage visitors to Prague from purchasing tickets to the attractions and tours mentioned above.